Masumoto Family Farm sits on the Kings River watershed and has historically drawn its irrigation water from two sources: “ditch water” that originates as snowmelt from the Sierra Nevada mountain range upstream, and water pumped from the ground. Despite relying on the Kings River for a “significant amount” of the water they use to irrigate, the Masumotos have had no ditch water for the last two years.
In addition to the challenges presented by decreased water availability and mandatory restrictions, the last few winters have been historically warm. Peach and other stone fruit trees require “chill hours”—exposure to sub-45 degree temperatures—for maximum health and a larger yield. The past two winters have been the warmest on record for California, leaving some varieties of the typically resilient peach at 10 percent of their typical size.
Informed by researchers from Stanford University who say climate change will likely result in even more drought and warmer winters, the Masumotos are adapting.
“The last year or two made us very aware of how we have to change some of our practices, and really this question of sustainability—the way we were farming, believing that water was an unlimited resource, and how incorrect that was,” Mas says.
Many growers facing such a shortage invest money in high-tech equipment or dig even deeper wells—a practice that is causing the entire state of California to sink. Most farmers adjust their irrigation levels accordingly, says Dr. Ken Shackel, a professor in plant/water relations at UC Davis. But no one knows for sure just how much water will be necessary in the coming years.
“Is it going to be worth continuing to grow peaches if I have to spend $10,000 or $50,000 to buy a pump or make my well deeper?” he asks.
Instead of using technology to draw more water from a diminished supply to maintain the size of their peaches, the Masumotos are embracing the smaller fruit. In fact, after tasting the sweetness and juiciness of his smaller Gold Dusts, Mas actually wondered whether he’d been overwatering his peaches for years.
“We had these peaches that were small, but had this wonderful, concentrated taste,” he adds. “It made us think—maybe this is the natural state of most fruit. Why are we chasing the bigger fruit? Because of the market.”